We are not official residents of Uganda. Our visas require us to leave the country every three months or risk expulsion from the country. So we looked at our neighboring borders and chose Rwanda. There are no entrance visa fees for Americans into Rwanda so we thought saving the $250 in visa fees would be great. The three interns, Obbie, Vitaly and Costya came along as well. We left on a sunny (it’s always sunny on the equator!) Saturday afternoon planning to go as far as Mbarara Uganda and stay the night there. Dan had met another missionary family here in Kampala on vacation from Mbarara and they connected so we were planning to spend a day with them on our way to Rwanda. We drove merrily along the severely pot-holed, poorly maintained roads excited for a week long holiday from the busy streets of Kampala.
We stopped off at the equator where you can take a picture acutally ON the equator, which we did. We were getting a bit weary after 5 hours on the road and were so excited to see the signs for Mbarara just ahead 20 kilometers. All of a sudden the car made a weird whirring noise and Dan lost all ability to shift. We glided to a stop in the middle of nowhere as Dan tried again and again to get the car in gear. We got out and stood around in front of the engine hoping some divine inspiration would reveal what the problem was. I had locked the kids in the car as we had been warned of road bandits and that we shouldn’t stop on the side of the road for any reason. Well sure enough across the road were two men quietly watching us and talking. Dan and the interns pulled out a rugby ball and started playing in the dirt while we waited for a tow truck from Mbarara.
Rain clouds began looming and now instead of two guys watching us there were four. I discreetly asked the guys if they were worried about being robbed. Dan and Obbie casually picked some large pieces of wood up and began fashioning them into weapons. Dan had a spear carved in about 10 minutes and Obbie had some sort of double ended stabbing weapon. Costya had put his hunting knife in his shorts and Vitaly grabbed the last thing available. A wrench. I was still unarmed but obviously in the protection of skilled and brave men. We glanced across the road again and now there were six men. The odds were not moving in our favor. Along comes another guy on a bike loaded down with freshly cut branches and a huge machete. Great. I was really beginning to get scared and a little teary but was trying to maintain the illusion of calm so the kids wouldn’t be scared. Dan finally shouts to the guys across the road. “Need something?”. They all laugh and shrug. They continue to stare. Again Dan asks them what they need, why are they hanging around staring? They again shrug. Dan tells them to come across the road. One of the guys who was quite mouthy and was aggressively shouting things in his language refused. The rest saunter across the road. Obbie is still carving his stabbing weapon and when he asks the guys again what they want one of them says, “Your knife”. Vitaly starts evangelizing the men after they ask us for money. I still was not convinced they weren’t going to kill us and steal our valuables. Dan explained to them that standing and staring at us seems rude or else implies they are wanting to steal from us. They all laugh nervously. Dan and the interns ask them to move on and quit staring. They cross back to the other side of the road. I noticed that the man with the machete is coming across to our side ever so slowly. I really start to panic thinking this is it…they are going to attack us. He just quietly leaned down and picked up another branch and went back to his bike. After telling them to leave again they finally disperse one by one. It was a frightening half hour. Finally the tow truck arrived and we loaded up.
The mechanic who would be fixing the car was steering it behind the tow truck into Mbarara. We were all piled inside with him. Once we made it to his shop the guys all hopped out and I was still in the car with the mechanic and the kids. His shop was on a relatively steep hill and as he released the brake to try to back the car into the garage compound a young girl tried to pass behind our car and in between another one parked behind us. Our car had three large prongs off the back where a spare tire normally goes. As the mechanic released the brake our car rammed into the car parked behind us nearly impaling the girl. Dan was horrified that the mechanic had now wrecked our car. Luckily the damage was minimal to our back end and a little worse for the driver behind us. Finally they maneuvered the car into the compound and we begin to get our stuff out. Here is the cool part. The man that Dan had met in Kampala but who lives in Mbarara was able to come and get us and set us up in a hotel. Had we not made that contact months before we would have been stranded with no one to call when we broke down. God used this great guy named Dale and his family to provide help for us in the right time. So thus began our vacation. A broken down car and a new friend.
We stayed in Mbarara until Monday while our car was worked on. We spent Easter with Dale and his family who have been in Mbarara for eight years. They have three boys close in age to our kids and we had a wonderful day with them on Easter. Dan went to the mechanic to make sure that the new parts for the car were in fact new. The mechanic showed him new parts in the box and so Dan gave him the go ahead for fix the car. We spent two nights in a guest house that at first seemed lovely. I had my first hot shower in four months. The last time I had showered in a real shower with running hot water was when we stayed at our friend’s house in Seattle before flying out for Uganda. It actually brought tears to my eyes that first night at the guest house when the warm water started flowing. When we tried to go to sleep though the lovely guest house wasn’t so lovely. There was a large group also staying there and they were up until 2 A.M. drinking. They went from room to room banging on the windows waking us all up at 2 A. M. Needless to say we were not thrilled. They finally quieted down that first night after an hour. I didn’t get much sleep but another hot shower in the morning lifted my spirits. The second night it was more of the same. Only this time they were loud when we were going to sleep and then again at 2 A.M. They were yelling in the hallway right outside of our rooms completely drunk. Finally Obbie the Intern stuck his head out of his room and said, “Shut up!”. The drunken man in front of him was incredulous and started to curse and threaten Obbie as he shut his door. The management of the guest house did little to stop this group. The next morning at 7A.M. they were still drinking and talking so loudly all of us woke up. I had had it. I went into the bar and kitchen and asked the management why they weren’t stopping them. They apologized but did nothing and even continued to serve them beer at the crack of dawn. We told the management that we were not going to pay full price for our rooms since we had only had 4 hours of sleep both nights. This became an hour long negotiation. In Africa there is little or no customer service or customer rights. As Americans this has been a very hard transition. Most places in America will offer a discount or a free night or something to keep you as a customer. In Africa, they just shrug and smile. It is infuriating! So after an hour of heated debating with the manager and even threatening to bring the police we capitulated and paid for our rooms. Obbie managed to get a whopping fifty cents off his room fee but not because they agreed to take it off. He just didn’t pay it. It was not a pleasant and relaxing time in Mbarara except for our new friends and our time with them on Easter. With the car fixed (supposedly….stay tuned for part 2) we finally headed off again to Rwanda on Monday.
The border crossing was pretty easy but when we finally got into Rwanda it was dark and the car was beginning to act funny again. From the border to Kigali there is really no where to stop but dark forest and farm lands so we were a bit anxious that last hour drive into Kigali. We arrived safely at 9 P.M. and settled into a seedy little hotel downtown.




